Into the Wild: A Visit to the Reindeer People of Zuun Taiga

Even though I was born and raised in Mongolia, I have always been intolerant of cold weather. Under normal circumstances, the very thought of enduring -30°C outdoors in January, the coldest month of the year, for seven days would be completely out of the question for me. 

One winter afternoon, as I lay on the sofa, basking in the warmth of the sun, I was suddenly overcome by the urge to journey to the Taiga—almost like a spiritual calling. Many Mongolians believe the Taiga is one of the most spiritually significant places in the country, a place that captivates the hearts and minds of all who set foot there. With little more than quick planning and preparation, two of us were on the road just two days later, heading toward Murun, the capital of Khuvsgul Province.

The Dukha people, also known as the Tsaatan (Reindeer in Mongolian), are a small, nomadic reindeer-herding community in northern Mongolia's Taiga region with approximately 40 households and 350 – 400 individuals (actively engaged in the reindeer herding lifestyle) in the whole community.

The community itself is divided into two settlements, the East Taiga settlement and the West Taiga settlement. Our destination this time was the West Taiga, which took us 1 day bus ride, 2 days car ride to arrive. 

Western Reindeer Tribe usually spends the winters about 20 km from the Tsagaan Nuur soum, its nearest village, and we were able to reach them by car. In the summertime, however, they pack up their reindeer and most of their belongings, and travel for 5-6 hours to their summer ground which cannot be reached by car due to the road conditions. To visit the Reindeer people during the summer, one must travel on horseback for 1-2 days. 

Photo: Tsagaan Nuur soum in Khuvsgul Province, Mongolia

Before heading to the Reindeer tribe, we made a few stops along the way to appreciate the winter beauty of the Khuvsgul region. 

Our first stop was the sacred hot spring known as Duut Bulag, and when arrived, I couldn't help but think: Am I in a Hallmark movie or a winter postcard? Duut Bulag is a natural hot spring, deeply revered by locals for its healing properties.

Photo: Duut Bulag at Khuvsgul Province, Mongolia

Even in winter, the spring remains warm, producing ethereal steam that beautifully contrasts with the snow-covered landscape. It's the kind of place where you’ll want to have your camera ready, as you’ll find countless opportunities for breathtaking winter shots. Since the hot spring is considered sacred, it's important to respect the surroundings—please refrain from soaking in the water.

Next day, we reached Zuun Taiga from Ulaan-Uul soum, and then through Tsagaan Nuur village. Ulaan-Uul is a relatively large village with around 4,000 residents, making it a good place to stock up on supplies if necessary. Tsagaan Nuur, on the other hand, is a smaller village but also serves as the gateway to the Taiga region.

Photo: Ulaan Uul soum (village) in Khuvsgul Province, Mongolia

We arrived at Zuun Taiga in the early evening, and along the way, we saw a few wooden sheds and tippies scattered around. At first glance, I found the Taiga and the settlements themselves a bit underwhelming. Questions like “Was it worth almost freezing my toes at -30°C and spending hours and days to get here? Is this all there is?” went through my mind. But as the saying goes, all good things come to those who wait. The Taiga, unhurried, slowly unfolded its beauty for us.

Upon our arrival, we visited the home of the tribe elder, Mr. Ganbat. Now in his 60s, Mr. Ganbat has been living the Reindeer tribe’s lifestyle since birth. He married his wife, who is also a Dukhan, and together they have four children, all of whom live nearby. Over dinner, we had the fortune of hearing their life stories, how they care for their reindeer and make the journey back and forth twice a year with them. This experience was certainly one of the highlights of our trip. We simply couldn't fathom how few belongings these people have and how light that must feel! Just your family, your herd, and a few essentials, all of which can be packed onto your reindeer and moved to a new location within hours!

As luck would have it, that night happened to coincide with a full moon, casting its glow over the Taiga and allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in its magnificence. Strangely, as the night grew later, the moonlight seemed to intensify, illuminating the landscape in an almost otherworldly brilliance. We savored this rare and breathtaking sight, lingering as long as the cold would permit. We slept in the winter dwelling of one of our hosts, a very simple wooden shed without any electricity or running water, but our rest was wonderful. 

A gentle drift of snow welcomed us in the morning which gave the Taiga a renewed look of tranquility, peace and absolute beauty. We spent the morning with the children of the tribe, watching them glide effortlessly across the fresh snow. Their pure joy in such simple moments left a lasting impression on me. We also had the opportunity to visit the reindeer and were pleasantly surprised by their gentle nature, especially compared to some other domesticated animals in Mongolia.

Photo: Mongolian Reindeer in traditionally Tsaatan family on their Reindeers at Taiga, Mongolia | Shutter stock

We said goodbye to the Reindeer people and Taiga, and then headed to the Jargant River. Jargant River is a remarkable natural feature known for its crystal-clear waters that flow year-round, even in the coldest winters. Unlike most rivers in the region, the Jargant River never freezes, thanks to its geothermal origins and underground springs that maintain a constant water temperature. This unique phenomenon creates a striking contrast against the surrounding snow-covered landscapes during winter. 

Photo: Beautiful Jargant River in Renchinlkhumbe soum, Khuvsgul, Mongolia

On our return journey, our last stop was the majestic Khuvsgul Lake, often referred to as the 'Blue Pearl of Mongolia.' In winter, the lake undergoes a stunning transformation, becoming a frozen wonderland. The thick ice sheets, some several feet deep, create mesmerizing patterns that seem almost otherworldly. The vast expanse of the frozen lake, framed by snow-capped mountains, exudes a quiet beauty that’s both peaceful and humbling. 

Photo: on the Beautiful Khuvsgul lake , Mongolia

Final Thoughts
Our trip to the Taiga was more than just a journey, it was a deep immersion into a way of life that few have the privilege to witness. The remote beauty of the region and the resilience of its inhabitants offered a totally new perspective that’s entirely unique. From the sacred Duut Bulag, where the land is steeped in spiritual significance, to the serene and majestic Khuvsgul Lake, each stop along the way provided an unforgettable experience. Whether it was spending time with the reindeer herders, hearing their stories, or simply being in awe of the untouched landscapes, every moment was rich with meaning. This trip has completely transformed my view of winter travel in Mongolia. It left me with memories that will last a lifetime—a deep appreciation for the way of life in the Taiga—and a burning desire to return to this extraordinary place, where time seems to stand still and nature reigns supreme.

Practical Tips for Your Winter Adventure
Dress Warmly: Temperatures can drop to -30°C (-22°F) or lower. Pack layers, thermal clothing, and insulated boots.

Respect Local Customs: The Dukha people have a deep connection to nature and their animals. Be mindful and respectful during your visit.

Book a Guided Tour: Navigating this remote region can be challenging. A knowledgeable local guide ensures a safe and enriching experience. If you want to experience the beauty of Mongolian winter or visit the Reindeer People, get in touch with one of our travel consultants at [email protected]. 

Related Articles:

An Introduction to the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders of Mongolia

15 things you should probably didn't know about the Dukha People

9 reasons you need to visit Mongolia right now

Mongolia in Winter: Huvsgul Lake

Guide to visiting lake Khuvsgul